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Migrate {{Infobox mountain}} coordinates parameters to {{Coord}}, see Wikipedia:Coordinates in infoboxes

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{{Infobox mountain
| name = Khan Tengri
| other_name = Hantengri Peak
| photo = Vue globale du versant N du khan Tengri.jpg
| photo_caption = Khan Tengri above North [[Engilchek Glacier]]
| elevation_m = 7010
| elevation_ref =
| prominence_m = 1685
| prominence_ref = <ref name="peaklist">[http://www.peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/StansP1500m.html "The Central Asian Republics: Ultra-Prominence Page"]. Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2014-05-26. This prominence figure is based on the elevation of 6995m.</ref>
| map = Kyrgyzstan
| map_caption = Location in Kyrgyzstan<br />(on the [[tripoint]] with Kazakhstan and China)
| label_position = left
| listing = [[List of countries by highest point|Country high point]]<br />[[Ultra prominent peak|Ultra]]
| location = [[Kyrgyzstan]]–[[Kazakhstan]]–[[China]]
| range = [[Tian Shan]]
| coordinates = {{coord|42|12|39|N|80|10|30|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref =
| topo =
| type =
| age =
| first_ascent = 1931 Mikhail Pogrebetsky
| easiest_route = glacier/snow/ice/rock climb
}}

'''Khan Tengri''' or '''Hantengri Peak''' ({{lang-kk|Хан Тәңірі}}, حان تأڭئرئ, ''Xan Täñiri''; {{lang-ky|Хан-Теңири}}, حان-تەڭىرى, ''Xan-Teñiri''; {{ug|خانتەڭرى}}, Хантәңри, ''Xantengri''; {{zh|s=汗腾格里峰|t=汗騰格里峰|p=Hànténggélǐ Fēng}}, [[Xiao'erjing]]: هًا تٍْ قْ لِ فعْ) is a [[mountain]] of the [[Tian Shan]] [[mountain range]]. It is located on the [[China]]—[[Kyrgyzstan]]—[[Kazakhstan]] border, east of lake [[Issyk Kul]]. Its geologic elevation is {{convert|6995|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}, but its glacial cap rises to {{convert|7010|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}. For this reason, in mountaineering circles, including for the [[Soviet Union|Soviet]] [[Snow Leopard award]] criteria, it is considered a 7,000-metre peak. The name "Khan Tengri" literally means "King Heaven" in Kazakh and possibly references the deity [[Tengri]]. In some other local languages, it is known as ''Khan Tangiri Shyngy'', ''Kan-Too Chokusu'', ''Pik Khan-Tengry'', and ''Hantengri Feng''.

Khan Tengri is the second-highest mountain in the Tian Shan, surpassed only by [[Jengish Chokusu]] (means "Victory peak", formerly known as [[Peak Pobeda]]) (7,439 m). Khan Tengri is the highest point in [[Kazakhstan]] and the third-highest peak in Kyrgyzstan, after [[Jengish Chokusu]] (7,439  m) and [[Pik Lenina]] (7,134 m). It is also the world's most northern 7,000-metre peak, notable because peaks of high latitude have a shorter climbing season, generally more severe weather and thinner air.

==Features==
Khan Tengri is a massive marble pyramid, covered in snow and ice. At sunset the marble glows red, giving it the Kazakh/Kyrgyz name ''Кантау/Кан-Тоо'' (blood mountain). Located just across the South [[Engilchek Glacier|Engilchek]] (or Inylchek) glacier, 16 km north of [[Jengish Chokusu]], Khan Tengri was originally thought to be the highest peak in the Tian Shan because of its dramatic, steep shape, compared to the massive bulk of Jengish Chokusu. This perception was probably also due to Khan Tengri's visibility across the plains of southern Kazakhstan while Jengish Chokusu remains out of view of civilization. Khan Tengri is the highest peak in the rugged Tengri Tag subrange, also known as the Mustag, that also contains [[Chapayev Peak]] (6371 m) and [[Gorky Peak]] (6050 m). [[Anatoli Boukreev]] considered Khan Tengri perhaps the world's most beautiful peak because of its geometric ridges and its symmetry.

==History==
[[Image:South Inylchek Base Camp.jpg|thumb|250px|right|South Inylchek Base Camp, at 4,000 m on the glacier's southern moraine, looking northwest to Pik Chapaeva and Khan Tengri in the distance]]
[[Image:KyrgyzstanP21-100Som-2002 b.jpg|thumb|300px|right|The peak appears on the Kyrgyz 100 [[Som (currency)|som]] bill]]
Although it is almost 430 m (1,500 ft) lower than its neighbor, Khan Tengri was believed to be the highest peak in the range until Jengish Chokusu was surveyed in 1943 and determined to be higher.

[[Pyotr Semyonov-Tyan-Shansky|Peter Semenov]] was the first European to see the Tengri Tag and its peak, the colossal Khan Tengri (in 1857).<ref>Semenov, Petr Petrovitch. ''Travels in the Tian'-Shan' 1856-1857''. Trans. by Liudmila Gilmour, Colin Thomas and Marcus Wheeler. Edited and annotated by Colin Thomas, pp. 180, 184-185. The Hakluyt Society, London. (1998). ISBN 0-904180-60-3.</ref>

The first ascent of the peak was made in 1931 by Mikhail Pogrebetsky's Ukrainian team by a route from the south (Kyrgyzstan side), then along the west ridge. M. Kuzmin's team made the first ascent from the north (Kazakhstan side) in 1964. Khan Tengri is one of five peaks that a Soviet mountaineer needed to scale to earn the prestigious [[Snow Leopard award]].

Austrian mountaineer and expedition leader [[Toni Dürnberger]] died while descending after having climbed Khan Tengri on 17 August 1992.<ref>[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HujXbsAXJZM Video in Gedenken an den österreichischen Bergsteiger Toni Dürnberger]</ref>

The peak appears on the Kyrgyz 100 [[Som (currency)|som]] bill. In 2004, more than a dozen mountaineers were killed in a large avalanche on the Pogrebetsky route, the most popular route on the mountain.

{{Clear|left}}

==Footnotes==
{{Reflist}}

==External links==
* {{cite summitpost|id=150339|title=Khan Tengri}}
* [http://www.peakware.com/peaks.html?pk=137 Khan Tengri on Peakware]
* [http://alpinefund.org/Kyrgyz%20Climbing%20Overview.html Khan-Tengri/Kyrgyzstan climbing information]
* [http://zipi.r-k.pl/tengri/galeria/index.html Khan-Tengri 2007 Polish Expedition]
* [http://khantengri.cloudclimbing.ro Alex Gavan's Khan Tengri 2004 Expedition (one of the best personal pages related with this mountain)]
* [http://mountains.tos.ru/breef.htm#pobeda Khan Tengri route maps]

{{Kazakhstan topics}}

{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Mountains of Kazakhstan]]
[[Category:Mountains of Kyrgyzstan]]
[[Category:Issyk-Kul Region]]
[[Category:Almaty Region]]
[[Category:Kazakhstan–Kyrgyzstan border]]
[[Category:International mountains of Asia]]
[[Category:Seven-thousanders]]
[[Category:China–Kazakhstan border]]
[[Category:China–Kyrgyzstan border]]
[[Category:Border tripoints]]
[[Category:Highest points of countries]]
[[Category:Tengriism]]

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